The Best of Dublin

I've been to so many places in the past few months I don't have the time (or the energy!) to give full-blown details. So I've decided to do a summary posts. I'll start with the most recent getaway - Dublin, Ireland! It's my first time to step into this part of Europe and its quite refreshing to understand what people are saying in the streets!

1) Ireland's oldest pub, The Brazen Head. Order the Irish Stew, or the Bacon & Cabbage, and drink up a pint of Smithwick's Ale (don't forget to ask the barman for a "Guiness head").

2) Ireland happiest pub (for me, anyway), The Cobblestone, for their live Irish music and low-key crowd. It was packed on a Thursday night--- despite the recession!

3) The Irish people - cheerful, talkative, storytelling, and oh-so-into the local drinks. It pays to listen to them! Besides the knowledgeable taxi & bus drivers, one of the highlights was getting the scoop on contemporary artists from an old security guard at the National Gallery (where incidentally, admission is free).

4) The 3.5 hours free walking tour courtesy of Sandeman's New Dublin Tours. is a great way to get an overview and history of Dublin. The entertaining tour guides work on tips and its far from the dry, boring, paid tours I've taken before.

Our guide, Helena.

Christ Church Cathedral

The River Liffey

The oldest part of Dublin Palace.

5) The Guinness Storehouse. I have to admit that I'm not the biggest fan of this super heavy beer but when it comes straight from the source it just tastes so fresh! Plus the view of the city from the top of the museum is hard to beat.

The best tasting Guinness ever.

View from the top.

6) The company. We were 7 in the group from 6 different countries. What a mix!

Philippines, USA, Macedonia, Norway, Malaysia, Mexico, Australia

A Winter Sunday

Despite the snow blowing in the streets sideways (that's how windy it was!) I still ventured out dressed like Kenny from South Park, or as my sister put it, in a puffy burka...

...in order to drop by the Sunday market at Bla. It was an eclectic collection of handmade knits from cute old ladies, trinkets and knicknacks, old photos, art pieces and vintage wear. I help myself back and contented myself with a Norwegian pancake while observing the proceedings, still amazed that nothing stops people from going out to shop.


Bla is located in the "artistic" side of Oslo, by the river, and walking around this old part of town and encountering surprising sights (like that huge outdoor chandelier) is always interesting. On Sunday nights I've heard that there's even a really good jazz quarter that plays there which I hope to catch sometime.

So...despite the cold there are still cool things that go on in Oslo.

Blink

Just like that, 4 months have gone by just like that in my "new" life in Oslo. I've done so much and seen so many things --- besides the practicalities of living in Oslo, I also took side trips to Madrid, Granada, Segovia, Palma de Mallorca, Stockholm and Dublin.

Now winter's here and the difference of living in Europe (and in Scandinavia) is even more highlighted! Yesterday I went out to check the Lanvin for H&M collection and instead of blowing my dough on an overpriced "couture for the masses" dress, I spent it on getting more wool, long sleeved shirts and a humidifier. Who knew there were so many things to think of for winter?? There's the winter clothes layering, the lack of humidity at home that's drying out my skin and causing mini-nosebleeds, plus having to walk outside with a stiff breeze in your face and ice on the pavement. As I write this, its -8 degrees celcius outside and they say this isn't the worst of it yet -- although it seems to have been the coldest November anyone can remember in a long time.

I promise to start posting bits and pieces of my trips in the next few days, I owe myself that!

A Big Night of Music

One of the advantages of living in a "major" European city like Oslo is the availability of some world-renowned entertainment. So far I've heard Madonna & Guns n Roses have passed through (my music references are indicative of my age), and its not only pop or rock music phenomenons who grace Oslo with their presence, but stars from other musical genres as well. It certainly contrasts to KL, which some international acts skipped due to religious issues. However, the availability of local live music seems less than the Philippines, which of course does so well that we export our live acts. In any case, I think part of the reason that Oslo is so full of entertainment is because people are always looking for something to do, and they have the time and money to spare. Something to watch out for when these big names come is that the tickets sell out so fast that you have to be glued to your PC screen when the online sales begin.

So for the last weekend of August, I booked myself a ticket to Festningen 2010, which headlined Norwegian electronica group Royksopp and French electronica pioneer Jean Michel Jarre. The weather took a turn for the worse in the evening, so it was my first time to see people coming for a concert dressed in rain gear and even ski outfits!

The festival started at 2pm but we didn't go there until 7pm. We were able to catch the opening act for the main show, a hiphop group from Malawi called The Very Best. I'd like to catch them in a more intimate setting next time, it would be so fun to dance.

After a half-hour break, a couple of beers and a visit to the portalet, Royksopp came onstage. I knew I liked their music, but I didn't know how much I knew of it. I've been chilling to "Poor Leno" since the early 2000's.

But of course the biggest shocker of the evening was the guest appearance of Robyn, who I was so pissed to have missed at the sold-out Oyafestivalen 2 weeks ago. And she started off with my favorite song in their collaboration, "The Girl and the Robot". I was screaming like mad.

Finally, a delightful performance from an unexpected source: Jean Michel Jarre who I have to admit I'd never heard of until I booked a ticket to this show. A pioneer of modern electronica, he's been spinning tracks since the 1970's and has played in venues like the Great Wall of China and the Pyramids. Until I saw his performance, I didn't understand what the fuss was about. Its old school electronica yes, but delivered in a spectacular show of light, sound and perfectly synchronized fireworks. The man is in his 50s but he had so much energy and was having so much fun on stage. It was simply entertaining to watch this musical magician.

This was a great cap to my busy first month in Oslo. Next week, I'm off to the opera!

The Big Leap

Yesterday was apparently the first day this summer that Norwegians had the opportunity to enjoy a real day at the beach. 26 degrees Celcius sunny weather had them trekking out en masse to enjoy a crowded day by the pebbly seaside.

Ordinarily the sight of a day of sunshine wouldn't drive me in a frenzy to go out, after all in Asia its pretty commonplace, but the locals gave me dire warnings that its possible a day like this won't happen again this year. Gulp. So to the beach I went, sans bikini (the good dozen I have are in a box winging its way to me), instead attired in a tank top and shorts.

At the first touch of the water, I felt it was too cold to swim in. So I just dipped my feet in and spent most of the afternoon sunning myself while enjoying the makeshift BBQ (sate!) and grilled hotdogs.

Later in the evening, the sun still being up, my friends encouraged me to dive off a 10 (or 15?) meter spring board into the 18 degrees ocean. My first thought --- were they crazy?? But they went ahead. I got so tempted. Finally, in my underwear, I took the plunge too! And actually after the first 3-second shock, the water felt great!

There's still a lot of adjustment to do being here. Their beach is not my idea of a beach, even going to the supermarket is a challenge since I hardly understand where everything else is and what exactly they're selling. I've made 5 trips to the grocery so far just to understand! The things I'm used to are not there. But once you've adjusted to the change, like the leap I took into the ocean, I hope to find a different sort of enjoyment.

Next Stop, Norway

Maybe about 6 years ago, I started thinking that I would like to try living in Europe. I imagined taking a fashion merchandising course in Italy or Spain, living a continental existence in wine bars, coffee shops and museums. Now that dream is a reality. Sort of.

Because if I had to pick a place to live in Europe, Oslo may not even have come into my top 10 list. Its too cold, the language isn't close to anything I know except English. But as of a few days ago, I've officially started living here! Well now I'm in a crappy hotel (they really don't do hotels like Asia does) but hopefully in a few days time I will move into my very own apartment in central Oslo.

It was a little bit strange to leave the comfort of the life I built in Malaysia but I didn't get too sentimental about it. I thought 3 years was enough and there seemed to be many signs that pointed out it was time to leave.

I don't know how the path of my life brought me here, but I aim to make the most of it.

A Birthday Story

34 years and 3 days ago (ahem) I was born to a "starter" couple. Just newly wed, with my father finishing up his MBA and new in the job market and my business-minded but junior employee mother. They had tried to time my birth with payday since they didn't have that much cash to spare but seems like I didn't cooperate and came a week early.

During the caesarian delivery, the story of which I've heard a million times (Mom rolled into the operating room still reading a "How to Give Birth" book), there's a story I only heard last year when my Mom visited KL. My maternal grandmother (I called her "Nanay") had apparently disappeared during the proceedings, which was quite unusual.

She eventually showed up a few days (or a day, or a week) later. Where had she gone? To pawn or sell her parcel of land in Laguna for measly price of P4,000 or US$80. Or some ridiculous amount like that. It was to help pay for me to get brought into this world.

I lost Nanay 2 years while I was living in Kuala Lumpur. I did get to see her before she passed, while she was in the hospital succumbing to pneumonia. I still miss her every day.

I don't mean to be sentimental, but I do realize I never got around to writing about Nanay and everything she did for me. Its actually a good story because I'm so lucky to have had a grandparent who was like this, and more.

Crabs + Cake

A spontaneously planned, but well organized birthday dinner (thanks to Pushpa!) took me and my closest remaining friends in KL to the fabulous butter crabs of Mei Keng Fatt in Ampang. I've gone there several times in the past, and its really worth going back to as the closest place from the centre of town to fulfill your seafood cravings. It also gave me a chance to bring along my new toy:

Crystal clear close up of the butter crab.

They call this seafood "Geoduck" but to us it looked like Gigantic D***.

I'd be afraid to eat this monster crab.

I had brought 2 bottles of wine for an after-dinner drinks session, and to my surprise, there was cake waiting for me! Awwwww.

I'm definitely going to miss my KL family *sniff*. Friends for life.

Birthday Indulgence

Happy birthday to meeeeee! Ok, I'm a few days early but I can't help but be super happy with my new toy. After years and years of thinking about whether I should upgrade, then one long weekend madly organizing my Flickr account to self-critique whether I had the "eye", and even starting a Photobook compilation, I went out and bought it!

My new "entry-level" DSLR, a Canon EOS 1000D. Yes folks, prepare to be drowned by even more travel photos on all my networking sites.

I guess this hasn't been the only indulgence in the past months. Last week I got these speakers to match my new blue iPod Nano 3G (with the back engraved "Music Keeps Me Sane").

You could say I'm preparing for a lot of indoor time combined with some never-been-there-before trips. I'm so excited to share my plans with everyone once they're finalized!

The Perhentian Experience

I spent my first year in Malaysia doing all the major KL tourist things as well as hopping out to Penang, Redang, Langkawi et al. Then I started traveling around Southeast Asia, and then it was a lot of European jaunts. In the last few months I've thought of rediscovering the place I've come to call home for the last 3 years.

So for some long weekends I found time to get away to the East Coast beaches such as Kuantan, Cherating, and the latest and farthest I visited was Perhentian Island.

We decided to head towards the small Island (Kecil) for the true backpacker experience, hoping of course to stick to a tight budget, but that wasn't going to be the case. Perhentian Kecil is truly a beautiful beach and perhaps if we hadn't rushed through it in 3 days, we would have had a better time.

Here's some of the high and low points of the trip:

The Good

A gorgeous white sand beach, clear blue waters, filled with...

...beautiful people! I sat down on the beach at 2pm and marveled at all the beach bodies that walked by. In fact I told my friend, "Are they not allowed to have ugly people on this beach?" Rightfully she said, "Don't talk too soon." Sure enough, they trot out the regular people starting 4pm.

The snorkeling was fantastic! Although not as much as promised here:

However, we did just pay 40 ringgit (US$12) for 2 hours in Perhentian waters with 3 snorkeling spots where we saw (and touched!) big turtles, swam with colorful never-seen-before fish, and chased small grey sharks! We also met a nice Dutch couple to boot.

Every night we hung out at a beach bar called Buffaloes, with cheap (by Malaysian standards) liquor, free fire-dancing entertainment and the best chill-out/house collection I've heard in a while!

The Bad

Yes, the above was so idyllic if it hadn't been hampered by the journey back and forth. The locals said we had landed at the wrong airport (Kuala Terrenganu) instead of the nearer Kota Bahru, which entailed a 1.5 hour taxi ride both ways, airport to jetty, to the tune of 220 ringgit (US$66). The the ferries only travel 3x/day, 8:00am, 12nn and 4pm so we had to fork out another 150 ringgit on top of the 70 ringgit fare for a "special" boat to take us back in time for our return flight.

The Coral Bay jetty looks beautiful though:

In Perhentian Kecil, the cheaper places do not take bookings online or by phone. They want to make the most out of the place so they expect you to walk in. So at 12noon, in the sweltering heat and with backpacks strapped on we walked from place to place, through the jungle, until we finally ended up in the main beach (called Long Beach) at the not so cheap 120 ringgit/night Mohsin chalet which seemed to have the only available room. We did get this view:

The boat people told us that we had to be at the Coral Bay jetty at 6:30am on the day of departure to make our flight - and the boat couldn't dock on Long Beach. Our first option, a taxi boat would have cost 40 ringgit to take us there. Our 2nd option was to move to a hotel on Coral Bay but of course the money-grubbing manager of Mohsin wouldn't refund us our advance payment on the room since we were checking out at 12noon and not at 11:30am as their policy supposedly stated. I say "supposedly" because I later saw a different policy in a bedroom drawer.

So we took our last option. A 20-minute walk through the jungle at 6am before the sun rose, guided only by the light of our mobile phone screens. I felt like I was in Lost. Without John Locke to guide us, or Sawyer for eye candy.

Oh and there was a "friendly" boatman we met the night before this trek who offered to take us to Coral Bay on his boat. He promised to meet us on the beach at 6am. I was no longer surprised when he didn't show up.

You can see why I was quite relieved to leave paradise.

Tick Tock

Mid-way through March and this image keeps whizzing through my brain. In exactly 3-months, life as I know it will change radically. Whether it's a smaller degree of radical-ness or the big whopping dose of exciting, its definitely going to be different...and I'm feeling a bit of the choke.

The impending changes have given me the benefit of a shift in perspective. Now I'm appreciating all that I have. Sunday lounging by the pool. Crossing the street to buy groceries or browse at the bookstore. My lovely gold Nissan with the free petrol. A little extra cash to buy those RM70 Esprit jeans from the Queen's Park Factory Outlet like I did yesterday. Those are just what I'll miss with that small change that will definitely happen.

What about the bigger change? There will be more than just the above to miss. Looking back at what I've written on this blog in the last 3 years, I realized that I spent more time blogging about my travels than the things I appreciate about the city that has become my second home. Plus there's so much more left to do. I'm just waiting for the signal to start doing them now.

But as one of my friends said over dinner the other night, why wait for the signal? Just do everything now! He's right...time to putting together that list of things I want to do, and checking them off one by one.

Photo courtesy of: http://blogs.ubc.ca/missionfitpossible/

My First Winter

A few days ago I returned from my first "real" winter experience in Norway. "Real" to distinguish it from my first snowfall which I caught last November while walking from the shuttle to an airplane about to take off from Budapest, where I stood on the airplane runway trying to catch snowflakes on my face like a crazy promdi fool. This time it was the end of February in Scandinavia, with miles and miles of snow. I had to suit up everyt ime I left the cozy warm indoors and I never felt I was wearing enough. My Zara sale coat performed quite well with a wool inner layer, but I think I'll be buying one of those puffy down-filled waterproof jackets with the fur trim sometime in the future.

In fairness, walking in the snowy outdoors was not as bad as I imagined. I thought that a tropical girl such as myself would freeze and keel over soon as I hit the outdoors but I was walking every day much like the other Norwegians (some of whom were jogging in - 2 degrees Celcius!). My face and hands got numb after awhile, and everyone kept telling me I was lucky to be experiencing such a mild bout of weather (the week before it was - 15 C), but then I thought, hey I can handle this!

That seems like a good sign.

The Dhaka Guide (Part 2 of 2)

When I started writing this post last year, fresh from my Bangladesh stint, I had so much ambition for it. I wanted to turn it into my office's definitive guide to staying in Dhaka. But time and life got in the way and I seem to have lost some of my travel guide photos, so I can only remember bits and pieces. However, I hope I have remembered the best parts.

A photographer friend commented that it must be amazing to take a camera to the streets of Dhaka and I agree the sights and sounds can be colorful and unique to document but for some reason I was always uncomfortable taking photos in the streets. Either I felt I would draw too much attention, or I didn't feel right pointing my slightly expensive camera at scenes of poverty. Its really unusual to be in Bangladesh, to be part of extremes and end up belonging to the upper half while many are at the lower end. People there have gotten used to it and I assume if I stay there longer I would be used to it too. However, the contrast is still stark for a "guest" such as myself.

That being said, I'd like to get back to best parts of sightseeing in Dhaka, besides its crazy streets, there are also some moments of its history:

Lalbagh Fort in Old Dhaka, an incomplete palace of the Mughal era, which contains a mosque and the tomb of the Mughal princess Bibi Pari.


Ahsan Manzil (The Pink Palace) in Old Dhaka, another landmark of the Mughal age situated at the Buriganga river. Here you can imagine the glory days of Bangladesh when both local and foreign royalty plied the palace halls. Not much is left though, in this place which is now a museum, and it makes you wonder how much was taken away over the years.


The Parliament Building in Dhaka, with an unusually futuristic design.


The best sightseeing trip I made was to Sonargaon, the old Bengal capital. A 2 hour drive out of the city, although its only 40 kms away, showing you how heavy the traffic situation can be. Stepping into Sonargoan is a refreshing gulp of fresh air, not only pertaining to the wonderfully green surroundings, but also to the seemingly cheerful, laid back people that occupy it.

Had they been better preserved, these ruins would have made it to the World Heritage Site list.
I still think they are beautiful though.

Happy tuktuk driver.

Colorful painted rickshaws.

The tip of an abandoned Hindi temple.

The Hindi temple ruins remind me so much of the Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Sonargaon folk museum

Lost iron art.

Beautiful and friendly children by the old mosque.

After I left Sonargaon I realized I have a Buddha Bar track on my iPod with the same name. I found a video for it on the web, and yes, it is apt to remember the spirit of the place.