The Perhentian Experience

I spent my first year in Malaysia doing all the major KL tourist things as well as hopping out to Penang, Redang, Langkawi et al. Then I started traveling around Southeast Asia, and then it was a lot of European jaunts. In the last few months I've thought of rediscovering the place I've come to call home for the last 3 years.

So for some long weekends I found time to get away to the East Coast beaches such as Kuantan, Cherating, and the latest and farthest I visited was Perhentian Island.

We decided to head towards the small Island (Kecil) for the true backpacker experience, hoping of course to stick to a tight budget, but that wasn't going to be the case. Perhentian Kecil is truly a beautiful beach and perhaps if we hadn't rushed through it in 3 days, we would have had a better time.

Here's some of the high and low points of the trip:

The Good

A gorgeous white sand beach, clear blue waters, filled with...

...beautiful people! I sat down on the beach at 2pm and marveled at all the beach bodies that walked by. In fact I told my friend, "Are they not allowed to have ugly people on this beach?" Rightfully she said, "Don't talk too soon." Sure enough, they trot out the regular people starting 4pm.

The snorkeling was fantastic! Although not as much as promised here:

However, we did just pay 40 ringgit (US$12) for 2 hours in Perhentian waters with 3 snorkeling spots where we saw (and touched!) big turtles, swam with colorful never-seen-before fish, and chased small grey sharks! We also met a nice Dutch couple to boot.

Every night we hung out at a beach bar called Buffaloes, with cheap (by Malaysian standards) liquor, free fire-dancing entertainment and the best chill-out/house collection I've heard in a while!

The Bad

Yes, the above was so idyllic if it hadn't been hampered by the journey back and forth. The locals said we had landed at the wrong airport (Kuala Terrenganu) instead of the nearer Kota Bahru, which entailed a 1.5 hour taxi ride both ways, airport to jetty, to the tune of 220 ringgit (US$66). The the ferries only travel 3x/day, 8:00am, 12nn and 4pm so we had to fork out another 150 ringgit on top of the 70 ringgit fare for a "special" boat to take us back in time for our return flight.

The Coral Bay jetty looks beautiful though:

In Perhentian Kecil, the cheaper places do not take bookings online or by phone. They want to make the most out of the place so they expect you to walk in. So at 12noon, in the sweltering heat and with backpacks strapped on we walked from place to place, through the jungle, until we finally ended up in the main beach (called Long Beach) at the not so cheap 120 ringgit/night Mohsin chalet which seemed to have the only available room. We did get this view:

The boat people told us that we had to be at the Coral Bay jetty at 6:30am on the day of departure to make our flight - and the boat couldn't dock on Long Beach. Our first option, a taxi boat would have cost 40 ringgit to take us there. Our 2nd option was to move to a hotel on Coral Bay but of course the money-grubbing manager of Mohsin wouldn't refund us our advance payment on the room since we were checking out at 12noon and not at 11:30am as their policy supposedly stated. I say "supposedly" because I later saw a different policy in a bedroom drawer.

So we took our last option. A 20-minute walk through the jungle at 6am before the sun rose, guided only by the light of our mobile phone screens. I felt like I was in Lost. Without John Locke to guide us, or Sawyer for eye candy.

Oh and there was a "friendly" boatman we met the night before this trek who offered to take us to Coral Bay on his boat. He promised to meet us on the beach at 6am. I was no longer surprised when he didn't show up.

You can see why I was quite relieved to leave paradise.